{"id":53,"date":"2010-07-31T21:42:07","date_gmt":"2010-07-31T20:42:07","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.josper.es\/blog\/?p=14"},"modified":"2019-05-28T10:04:07","modified_gmt":"2019-05-28T10:04:07","slug":"financial-times-hornos-josper","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jospergrill.com\/es\/financial-times-hornos-josper\/","title":{"rendered":"Publicado en Financial Times: “Josper, el \u00faltimo juguete imprescindible de los chefs”"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

[Reproducimos el art\u00edculo publicado en el Financial Times<\/em> por Nicholas Lander, The latest must-have chef\u2019s toy<\/em><\/strong>]<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En estos \u00faltimos a\u00f1os, los cocineros amateurs se est\u00e1n equipando cada vez m\u00e1s con artilugios dignos de los buenos restaurantes (como m\u00e1quinas para hacer pan, m\u00e1quinas para hacer cremas o pur\u00e9s, cuchillos japoneses…), pero a los chefs profesionales a\u00fan les gusta ir m\u00e1s all\u00e1.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hasta hace poco el juguete<\/em> elegido de los chefs era el Pacojet, producido en Suiza, con un coste de 3.000 libras, que realiza pur\u00e9s de alimentos congelados, concentrando el aroma de los ingredientes naturales. El Pacojet es un emblema de un estilo culinario que se pone de manifiesto en los mousses y espumas, una propuesta cuya moda est\u00e1 empezando a decaer. Ahora, en su lugar, en lo m\u00e1s alto de las listas de compra de los chefs, est\u00e1 el horno Josper, a pesar de tener un precio superior a las 18.000 libras.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Consumiendo carb\u00f3n vegetal de alta calidad, el Josper es, para que nos entienda el ciudadano de a pie, la barbacoa de interior que alcanza mayor alta temperatura del mercado. Tiene una puerta frontal que, cuando est\u00e1 cerrada, asegura que ninguno de los aromas o jugos naturales se perder\u00e1 de los alimentos que cocina. Normalmente, el Josper se describe como un horno, aunque su funci\u00f3n primaria es la de parrilla.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Me encontr\u00e9 con mi primer Josper hace cinco a\u00f1os en Mosc\u00fa, en Goodman, un asador que serv\u00eda una carne excepcional. El horno tambi\u00e9n se instal\u00f3 en su sucursal de Londres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Raphael Duntoye, chef de La Petite Maison en Mayfair, es un gran entusiasta. Los platos cocinados en el horno han resultado tan exitosos con los clientes que su \u00fanico lamento es no haber comprado dos. \u201cCada uno de los chefs que ha venido a esta cocina a ver el Josper ha acabado comprando uno\u201d, dice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

El Josper de m\u00e1s alta gama tiene capacidad para unas 30 piezas de carne o pescado simult\u00e1neamente. Las parrillas, a una temperatura normal de unos 300\u00ba, marcan la carne o el pescado de forma atractiva y lo cocinan r\u00e1pidamente.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A pesar de este reciente crecimiento en popularidad, los Josper funcionan desde hace unos 40 a\u00f1os. Se crearon en 1970 por Josep Armangu\u00e9 y Pere Juli (quienes dieron el nombre a la compa\u00f1\u00eda), al a\u00f1o siguiente abrieron su restaurante con 1000 sillas, el Mas Pi, en Pineda de mar, cerca del Mediterr\u00e1neo en el noreste de Espa\u00f1a. Lo que ellos dise\u00f1aron tiene dos corrientes de aire regulables: una en la parte inferior para regular la entrada de aire y otra en la parte superior para la salida del humo y los gases de combusti\u00f3n. Funciona de una forma similar al mecanismo trasero de la cocina tipo Aga que, en tiempos lejanos, era t\u00edpica de las cocinas rurales inglesas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Los informes del importador de Josper para el Reino Unido muestran un crecimiento r\u00e1pido con unos 100 hornos instalados y solicitados por diversos restaurantes de perfil alto. La segunda marca de Hawksmoor, que est\u00e1 especializada en servir carne brit\u00e1nica, tendr\u00e1 uno cuando abra en Covent Garden en octubre, as\u00ed como la cocina de Heston Blumenthal en el Mandarin Oriental en Knightsbridge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Descubr\u00ed exactamente c\u00f3mo son de potentes estos hornos cuando visit\u00e9 al chef Mark Hansell-Dixon en la cocina abierta de Akeman, un restaurante en la comercial ciudad de Tring (Herfordshire).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Por una parte, en una bandeja un besugo entero y por otra parte un solomillo de ternera brit\u00e1nica de 28 d\u00edas, ambos con aceite de oliva, sazonados, y, en el caso del pescado, con jugo de lim\u00f3n. Abriendo la puerta del Josper, sale la primera r\u00e1faga de calor, una sensaci\u00f3n que iba a repetirse con frecuencia ya que las piezas eran volteadas muy pronto. El pescado fue sacado para ser terminado en un horno convencional durante 5 minutos, mientras que el solomillo se puso en el portabandejas superior, donde la temperatura se mantiene en unos 60\u00ba hasta 80\u00ba, hasta que est\u00e9 listo para servir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hansell-Dixon dijo que le hab\u00eda llevado cerca de una semana para adaptarse a la intensidad calor\u00edfica del Josper cuando las piezas se le quemaban si no prestaba atenci\u00f3n. Pero globalmente qued\u00f3 enormemente entusiasmado con \u00e9l. Asar sardinas frescas era uno de sus favoritos mientras que otros dos platos, panceta de cerdo asada lentamente y tomates asados, hab\u00edan encontrado el m\u00e9todo para incorporarse a su men\u00fa despu\u00e9s de que experimentara con ellos dej\u00e1ndolos ambos en el portabandejas hasta 12 horas. Abriendo la puerta inferior, Hansell-Dixon me mostr\u00f3 la bandeja en forma de V que alberga el carb\u00f3n. \u201cEsto quema 10 kg de carb\u00f3n al d\u00eda. En un a\u00f1o, viene a representar alrededor de 5000 libras.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Peter Borg-Neal, el propietario del Akerman, est\u00e1 instalando hornos Josper en dos de sus restaurantes: el Old Post Office en Wallingford (Oxfordshire), y el Red Lion en Water End (Hertfordshire). \u00c9l dijo: \u201cMe permite conseguir dos objetivos muy diferentes. En primer lugar, usar una t\u00e9cnica de cocci\u00f3n normalmente asociada a los restaurantes m\u00e1s caros del West End y, en segundo lugar, usarlo para cocinar un extenso abanico de alimentos. Incluso cocinamos la pechuga de pollo para la Ensalada C\u00e9sar y son las mejores que he probado jam\u00e1s\u201d.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

[Reproducimos el art\u00edculo publicado en el Financial Times por Nicholas Lander, The latest must-have chef\u2019s toy] En estos \u00faltimos a\u00f1os, los cocineros amateurs se est\u00e1n equipando cada vez m\u00e1s con artilugios dignos de los buenos restaurantes (como m\u00e1quinas para hacer pan, m\u00e1quinas para hacer cremas o pur\u00e9s, cuchillos japoneses…), pero a los chefs profesionales a\u00fan […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":5403,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"default","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"default","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"default","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center 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